Friday, 19 January 2018

Looking backwards to go forwards....

I will post pictures of all the bits and pieces once I have sorted them all out 

In pursuit of some bits and pieces I need to support my block armies for 20th century gaming I have managed to source a cheap copy of Axis and Allies. The version I have acquired is the 2004 revised edition  which was the last produced before the range exploded into a number of other versions. I am really excited about this as the game is unplayed and all the component pieces are still in their packs. Aside from the land bits and pieces there are also the ships and aircraft to consider. I am looking forward to working with these and already have a few simple rules ideas to play around with.

The ships and aircraft will be painted and based and for the latter I shall also make use of some decals. This will add to the flavour. Aircraft will also be mounted of ‘flying’ bases. The overall ‘generic-ness’ of the models is fairly muted so whilst they are pretty nondescript detail-wise they can be readily identified as to what they are supposed to be. Again, this will add to the flavour. I have also been looking long and hard at the offerings from the two companies mentioned in my previous posts – Historical Boardgaming and Stratak – and will probably expand the Axis and Allies pieces to include some of these in due course.

In many ways there are elements of ‘going back to my roots’ in this latest adventure as making use of materials for purposes other than that for which they were intended used to be very much my stock in trade in the early days of my wargaming. It was a lot of fun and the games I had were real enough to me at the time. Using my block armies over the last few years has reinforced the values I had long since discarded – improvisation and making the best of what you could find  - and has made me look at my wargames from a wider perspective. Well certainly wider than painting great numbers of figures at the very least. I have the utmost respect and admiration for those that choose this approach – it just isn’t for me. Having said that I shall not be entirely removed from the whole figure thing as I shall be using those that come as gaming pieces where I am able, for example the Medieval and 18th Century Risk figures at some point. The infantry figures in Axis and Allies may even get a lick of paint, similarly those from Memoir 44/Battle Cry. Of course I also have the 54mm Foreign Legion and Arabs to tackle in due course so I am not really severing all my links with the world of painted figures. There is now no urgency around painting these though which means I can do them when the mood takes me and not to any timetable.

I fully intend to paint the pieces that I use alongside the block armies though as, and I can almost hear the mocking laughter in the background, the look of the thing is important to me – this is primarily why I prefer the 3D terrain option rather than using a map. Using varying scales of model within the same game is not a problem - there are rules around that happily do this - so I can take comfort from the fact that all I am doing is standing on the shoulders of giants so to speak.

Wednesday, 17 January 2018

Enigma Variations....Part 3

The Airfix polythene Tiger 1 - much coveted 'back in the day'

I am experiencing that circular kind of feeling, you know, that Deja vu kind of thing. Way back in the early 1970s when I first dabbled in wargames my resources were very limited. My family circumstances were very modest and money was never plentiful. My mother was bringing up three of us on her own with yours truly being the eldest so hobby 'stuff' was low on the list of our budgetary requirements.. Figures and models were rarities and limited to birthday presents and Christmas, with the odd acquisition as the result of my paper round. The Isle of Sheppey, located in the Thames estuary(where I come from), did not have a model shop although there were a couple of toy shops that stocked Airfix kits and figures, not to mention a gift shop at Leysdown that did the same. The nearest model shops were on the mainland at Sittingbourne. The only magazine I was aware of was Military Modelling and so I used to buy that when I could. 

The Airfix Pontoon Bridge Assault Set - complete with British Commandoes assaulting early war German Infantry ably assisted by Patton and Centurion tanks and that rather mysterious SP Gun (I never did find out what it was based on)

In order to wargame then I needed to eke out my finances and make do with what I had to hand. In short, I needed to improvise. I can remember using Lego bricks as troop blocks and scratchbuilding tanks and buildings for my games from a combination . The results may not have won any awards but they served a purpose. In the games I fought they were real enough. The release of the Airfix polythene vehicle range was a major boon for my WW2 games – even if the range was initially a little odd. I happily used vehicles as whatever was needed so the Patton tank served in most armies until the Tiger and the T34 made an appearance. The SP was used by everyone and the 25pdr with tractor was used for pretty much any type of towed artillery or anti-tank gun. I never used the tank transporter or the landing craft though. The point I am trying to make is that I was happy enough using models for things other than what they were as I had little choice. Did the games suffer for this? Absolutely not! In fact it was quite handy as it meant that a particular vehicle could serve in any army – rather like Hollywood in a way. I was reminded of this when I recently watched The Battle of the Bulge for the umpteenth time - M48s as King Tigers anyone? 

Gradually as the finances improved through a variety of pocket money jobs and so I was able to add into the mix some ‘proper’ models and other equipment. Sadly this came at a price as with this new found ‘maturity’ came the gradual descent into 1980s ‘rivet counting’ rules. 

Fast forward to the present day and after I have divested myself of my rose-tinted spectacles I find myself on the brink of doing something vaguely similar but with the benefit of over 40 odd years of wargaming ‘experience’. I have abandoned the rivet counting of yesteryear and so for my 20th century games I will use the blocks and make do with what models I can get to use alongside them. This would not work for many people but suits me to a tee as I generally fight most of my games on a solo basis. It will also make battle reports a little easier on the eye. 

It does not mean I am abandoning figures and models entirely – it is just that in order to satisfy a certain requirement this is the solution I shall adopt. 
An example of some painted Axis and Allies game pieces

The pieces included in the Axis and Allies series of games also feature a number of ships. Each of the major powers fields a carrier, a battleship, a cruiser, a destroyer, a submarine and a merchantman. These are not consistent in terms of scale but are quite obvious as to what they represent. There also a number of nation specific types available from a couple of suppliers which are useful to fill some gaps in the range. In fact one could build up a navy with the 'correct' ships being used as intended via these suppliers if desired as long as one bears in mind they are not scaled in anyway but are designed as gaming pieces.
Another supplier of gaming pieces for use with Axis and Allies - the website is on the pictures should you want to take a quick look.

The Soul Searching bit....
If I am honest with myself I believe that I have been pursuing a wargaming blind alley for years now. I am unlikely to paint great armies of figures - it has little appeal to me for a variety of reasons - or huge fleets of ships (I have tried both) and it many ways this has held me back from my enjoyment of fighting wargames. I do not believe you need to use figures or models to have a good wargame - all you need is a little imagination and a gaming medium that works for you. I want to fight table top battles using whatever I need to - be it detailed models, cardboard counters, wooden blocks or gaming pieces with the proviso that if any models are used then they should be painted.
So there you have it.


Tuesday, 16 January 2018

Enigma Variations....Part 2

The playing pieces from the current 1942 edition of Axis and Allies. For more details check out the link below.

As is my want I briefly mentioned in my last blog post about the potential solution I may have for 20th century games using my block armies. It is rather unconventional but then probably no more so than using blocks with 3D terrain is!

There is no doubt that our friends across the pond are very well served in respect of spare parts for board games. From counters and variant counters, extra maps, dice, play sheets and rules the chances are you will be able to find someone that can supply spares if required. The same is also true of playing pieces - both for the 'official' versions and any of any of the myriad variants that a popular game will inevitably spawn.

Axis and Allies is lightweight WW2 grand strategy boardgame originally produced by MB Games and more recently under the Avalon Hill label as part of Wizards of the Coast (who in turn are owned by Hasbro). The game typically features a substantial quantity of fairly modestly detailed miniatures depicting the playing units. Infantry aside there are vehicles including tanks, various artillery types (usually field and AA). a selection of naval pieces and aircraft. These are modelled to look nationality specific and are fairly generic looking. From a scale perspective they are not consistent and are made from soft plastic. More detailed models that are far more readily recognisable are available from Historical Boardgaming and are 3D printed in a harder plastic.

So here is my idea. I will try and pick up a cheap second hand set of the game - I doubt very much if I will ever play it as is - and will use the miniatures to support the blocks. There are a number of examples of painted pieces in use on the net and they look very effective. This means I will wargame using a combination of blocks and miniatures.

I did say it was unconventional....

The ship pieces are very intriguing and I have something in mind for them as well - especially when one makes use of some of the variant pieces that are available.

Lets be honest, when fighting a 20th century naval game one does not need to use models at all. In fact, using models rather fudges the issue as they are hugely over scale for the average tabletop. We use models because we can and because they look good and even I will admit to enjoying painting them (as long as they are plain grey that is....). The ship models from Axis and Allies (NOT their collectible naval game but the one above) tick a number of boxes for me as they are functional game pieces that can be used in a relatively generic way. I should point out that I am fast becoming a generic naval gamer rather than a rivet counter - simply because stressing about minute differences between ship types is a fairly pointless exercise. Major differences should be reflected for sure but this can be tackled easily enough and without the angst-ridden soul-searching I have usually undertaken.

Visually there are certain design features that serve to reflect the national identity of a warship and as long as these are present on the model in some way that should suffice for gaming purposes. Virtually every set of naval rules I have used makes use of a ship record card for damage and performance so in reality (and in my opinion) this is the main focus of how well a ship is (or isn't doing) - not the model on the table.

At this point I can hear the sharpening of pitchforks and piling of logs taking place....

I will post in full about this last heretical point in due course.

Monday, 15 January 2018

Enigma Variations....*

Not one of mine (you can thanks Google Images for this) as the blocks in use are Kriegsspiel types. Mine are far more basic although I have the same buildings!

It never ceases to amaze me how spending a short while organising a part of a collection can suddenly turn into a full blown project. I recently decided to revisit the block armies - more as a way to pass some time than with any coherent plan in mind - and lo and behold, I am now moving them into pole position in order to realise a few ideas I have floating around. In truth recent events have made me think about a number of things and so extracting the maximum mileage out of one part of the collection has assumed greater relevance than before.

In respect of my block based wargames I have fought games on both maps and a tabletop. I have used both 2D and 3D terrain and even a mix of the two. All have much to commend them and if I am honest using any variation is fine by me, for my own use it really does not matter. I have also seen games using Command and Colours Napoleonic troop blocks on a tabletop – I have tried the same using Hexon but did not really enjoy the experience as the hexes were too large and the units looked a little lost – which is something perhaps I should also explore.

Command and Colours Napoleonics in action - with the British about to have a challenging day...

I guess the point I am trying to make is that it does not really matter whether you are using blocks on a 2D or a 3D basis as long as you make sure in the latter case that the terrain ‘fits’ from a visual perspective with the size of the blocks you are using. As my blocks have a frontage of 30mm and are around 11mm high then terrain from 10mm and smaller is ideal (not 15mm as I originally thought – most of this is too large). Using a 2D map is fine although I would tend to use this for more 'open' games - scrunched up contour lines or an intensive road network with lots of urban development strains the use of blocks in my opinion, we are closer to boardgames at this point.

The biggest challenge - aside from the use of the appropriately aesthetic terrain - with using blocks remains the need for a clear narrative of what the action is actually representing – the same of course is equally true when reading an account of a battle supported by a map. Again this is something I have touched on before as previously my battle reports ranged from highly detailed to bare bones like. The latter meant that the in game pictures were a little tricky to follow. From my perspective they all made perfect sense but I freely concede that the supporting narrative should have been a lot clearer.

These are my basic block types although I have added 'heavy' and 'light' to the cavalry, artillery and infantry blocks. 'Heavy types have a thick black bar along the bottom edge whilst 'Light' have a white bar. I am still not sold on the middle and bottom row though.

I want to take the blocks to the next level in terms of how they are seen when used in a game setting. I am thinking that perhaps using some digital wizardry on any in game pictures may help – movement direction arrows, damage inflicted, that kind of thing. Coupled with text that is closer to the point of action will also help.

So there is still much to think about with this collection and if I am honest it is currently dominating my thoughts. I will have a rather novel solution to the 20th century angle though - this will form a post later in the week.

* The use of blocks rather than figures is of course an 'Enigma' and I am discussing 'Variations' of the same. Edward Elgar would understand....

Sunday, 14 January 2018

A Portable Wargame Table

The table deployed - it measures very slightly under 2ft by slightly over 3ft and is about the height of a coffee table

The same table ready to pack away as the legs are not fixed - they merely slot into the corners on the underside when fully extended. The table currently lives down the side of the freezer in the utility room!

Many years ago - by my reckoning at least ten - I acquired the above table from a boot sale for the princely sum of two pounds. It was had been built by the chap I purchased it from and was originally designed to be used as a card table. It had been covered in green baize that was very tatty around the edges so I duly removed this and recovered it with a model railway sticky backed grass mat from a model shop. I had always intended to use this for wargames but for some reason never got around to doing so. The table has however, seen a lot of action as it is the family gaming table so comes out for cards and boardgames at Christmas whilst SWMBO and I use it for our occasional Scrabble battles.

I had been debating about gridding the table on and off for sometime now but am going to leave it as it is. I have a number of plans for the type of games I will use it for and reckon that the block armies will be making an appearance on it in the not too distant future. It could readily be used for a DBA/HOTT style game or even for some non grid based Portable Wargames. If I really needed to have a grid on it I would probably go for the sticky paper dots one finds in stationers or possibly some carefully placed terrain. The blocks do look good on it though....

Saturday, 13 January 2018

2D or not 2D, That is the question....Part 1

Using blocks on a free table - not a grid in sight!

Examples of block types from Kriegspiel

The more traditional use of Kriegspiel blocks on a map

One of the main reasons I went to the trouble of making my block armies was to enable me to fight games covering a variety of periods without having to invest time and money in multiple ranges of figures. I am an avid student of military history but a reluctant painter of figures so tackling new periods would usually mean a lot of time and effort which is frankly beyond my fickle nature. The blocks were successful without a doubt and fulfilled their intended use beyond my expectations. They are not perfect by any means - I am quite sure someone who is a better with graphic design software than I could produce far more readily attractive labels - but they hit the spot for my needs.

Traditionally Kriegspiel blocks would be used on a two dimensional basis using a map or a hand drawn layout. Indeed, I have received suggestions along the lines of using board game terrain tiles for my games on a flat playing area - a good idea but not quite what I want to do. 

If you look at the top picture you will see a game that someone has set up using troop blocks and three dimensional terrain on a normal playing area - essentially off the grid so to speak. I really liked the clean lines of this approach and the terrain gelled with the use of the blocks in a very pleasing way. Mind you, I also rather liked the action being fought in the bottom picture as well.

I believe that by using a careful selection of representative terrain - I am thinking of the 'Town in a Bag' buildings or my holiday collection of Greek buildings - I am thinking that my games will capture that all important '3D Map' look I am aiming for. It will also mean that I can use a far greater selection of rules than currently as everything I have been gaming has tended to be Command and Colours or Portable Wargaming based.

I intend conducting a few experiments using my block armies 'off the grid' so to speak and will be exploring using blocks on a map and also with 3D terrain to see how they look. I will also be drawing maps to fight over and this will certainly take me back to my early days of wargaming. The hand drawn maps though will certainly have an advantage in terms of practicality as they will be very easy to store and will be instantly reusable.

Something else to think about then

Wednesday, 10 January 2018

And now for something completely different....

The Old Guard in MDF no less....

I came across something rather novel being produced by a company called Commission Figurines which, inevitably, got me thinking. Essentially, as well as a very nice selection of terrain pieces the company have launched a range of 6mm MDF figures. That’s right – MDF. At present Napoleonics and ACW are available and the first of an Ancient range is being launched. These are quite intriguing to look at and certainly give the whole ‘wooden poses’ concept some mileage. Presumably due to limitations of production the figures are fairly static looking but that rather adds to the charm in an old fashioned way. The figures are laser cut from 2mm thick MDF and have detail etched into the surface of the figure which adds to the ease of painting. These are for all intents and purposes ‘flats’ and therefore are a whole lot easier to get ready for action (no offence intended for the ‘flat’ painters amongst us….). 

The poses are quite rigid which works well for certain periods, in fact they put me in mind of the Histoire and Collections uniform plates. Cost wise they are fairly cheap - £2 will get you around 96 foot including command, 30 odd mounted or 6 guns and crews with limbers. 

Curiosity has gotten the better of me and so I have placed a small order for some, just to see how they paint up. The thought crossed my mind that you may well be able to get away with a black wash undercoat and then blocking in colours with ink or paint pens rather than using a brush.  

En masse they look pretty impressive and I believe a review appeared in the January edition of Wargames Illustrated.
Sigh....something else to think about....